It’s hard in some respects to believe we are celebrating Christmas literally on the other side of the world. In other respects, our community of teachers, new Chinese friends, and our family of four spending time watching Christmas movies, drinking hot cocoa, and playing games, makes it feel like any other. Christmas spirit is indeed inside each of us.
When we moved here we were warned that the Holiday’s are the hardest. One couple told us that “Christmas isn’t really a thing” here in China. Prepping for that presumed reality, each of us dealt with it in our own way – either pretending there was no holiday season to worry about or, as in my case, working feverishly to decorate and bring some Christmas cheer to our apartment.
One Sunday afternoon in late November, we went to one of the major flower markets in Shanghai. The Caojaidu Flower Market sits in a 4-story broken down concrete warehouse on the other side of the city. Inside the massive structure, vendors pack the hallways and floors with wholesale floral and garden items including, every now and then, some selling Christmas trees, wreaths, and decorations. The market is bustling and dirty and not for the faint of heart as little to no English is spoken and Westerners are clearly out of place. But picking our way gingerly though the massive and crammed warehouse, we got supplies and bargained each vendor down in the traditional Chinese shopping way.
Starting December 1, the city awoke in a distinct Christmas spirit. There were Christmas decorations and lighted trees, and even blaring Christmas music in many stores. Our school had a Christmas program. The Chinese track and the English track put on a show to remember with traditional Chinese dances and songs of Christmas or just popular music. There are some things, like the sightseeing tunnel, that defy categorization. I’ll always remember this Christmas concert as one that defies categorization as well. Precious school children singing traditional songs, then singing songs from the Titanic complete with a sinking ship in the background, make for a memorable performance.
While the three main religions associated with China (Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism) are still practiced, when you look at the entire population, those that adhere to these religions are in the minority. A demographic breakdown of religions claim 26% Taoist/Confucian, 2% Buddhist, 2% Christian, and 2% Muslim. China is also a communist state, so as many as 60% follow no religion at all. From time to time on local news sites that I follow I will read of a rally against western culture. I don’t want to misrepresent China as being wrapped in a bow at Christmas time because it isn’t. But here in Shanghai, a cosmopolitan city made up of a lot of people from outside of China, you definitely do see Christmas.
Some may say the Chinese participation in western traditions like Christmas can be attributed to commercial interests or also indicate the fascination with western culture. That may be. One delivery man who was bringing a large package up to our apartment asked me in broken English if we were from America. When I said yes, he fell to his knees and yelled out, “I LOVE AMERICA!!!” While I was thinking to myself, you may not love us so much after you climb the 5 flights of stairs with this 100 pound package, he dismissed me and insisted on taking a photo with us and the package to show his friends that he delivered to Americans.
However, I also believe that the sharing of Christmas traditions, at least in Shanghai, can also be attributed to simple kindness and a show of respect for guests and friends.. And for me, that’s what Christmas means.
While we are making the most of our experiences away from home this Christmas, we are thinking of everyone back home and miss you all. From our hearts to yours, we wish you a very Merry Christmas and above all, health, happiness, and prosperity in the New Year!