One of the first things most people do after arriving in Shanghai is pay a visit to the most iconic of all Shanghai tourist spots – the Bund. It’s a fitting gesture because the contrast and dynamism of this spot reflect the essence of Shanghai.
The Bund is the section of waterfront along the Huangpu River which separates the older district of downtown Shanghai (Puxi) from the newer financial district (Pudong). Situated on the former international settlements of Shanghai, it was the historic home to trading institutions and banks from international (British, French, American, etc.) interests in the area during the 19th and 20th centuries. Because of the area’s architecture, history, and location on the outer banks of a river as it transitions around a corner, the Bund remains an active waterfront in this bustling city.
As our family and friends have visited, the Bund is inevitably a must do on a varied and busy sightseeing schedule. Visiting a 2-mile strip of land numerous times may seem boredom inducing, however, in a city of 25 million people very few things can legitimately be called boring. Shanghai’s ability to change allows a seemingly simple location to reveal something new each time it’s visited. Here are 5 perspectives of the most famous of all Shanghai spots.
Bund by Day
Taking in the Pudong area skyline by day gives an immediate sense of the scale and immensity of this city. The wonder felt the moment you turn the corner and in front of you rises the mountainous city skyline never gets old. Not only do the massive skyscrapers stand like redwoods against the backdrop of the city, but in the daylight the smaller buildings that make up most of the city fill in the layers of the metropolis canopy below. Like looking at a composite image, you can stare at one cluster of buildings and see layer after layer of detail emerge with the shifting light. River traffic includes barges laden with coal plying up and down the waters. This is the time of day you can also look to the sidelines and see the other bridges, canals, and historic districts that make up the corners of the skyline.
Bund by Night
For sparkle and bling, come to the Bund at night and see lights twinkle alight as dusk passes to night. China takes it lighting seriously. Skylines here aren’t just scattered with occasional office lights from late night workers or cleaning staff but instead consist of a full light parade which illuminates the city with its energy and promise. Now the buildings become a spectacle of energy, literally and figuratively. Colors flash, video displays cover entire buildings, and riverboats light up like fireflies along the river. One of my favorite scenes at night is to look at the barges in their never ceasing travels up and down the river. These barges in daytime are industrial low-level cargo barges and at night are too focused on their work to participate in the light show. Carrying no lights, they look like ghost ships – black holes of shape only amidst the brightly colored lightscape beyond.
Bund by Water
For a shift in perspective, take in the view from the Huangpu River itself. Though you can also cross under the river on the pedestrian sightseeing tunnel, the best ‘real world’ exploring is by river ferry. Dinner cruises sale up and down the Bund offering “on the water views” of the skyline and a better ability to catch the beauty of the historic Bund side as well. For about a quarter you can catch a cross river ferry that takes you to the Luizajui side of the river. This side, though not “technically” the Bund, also has a river walk that ambles at a more scenic pace with restaurants and cafes dotting the walkway. Joggers and basketball courts sit in the shadows of the skyscrapers.
Historic Bund
The Bund isn’t solely just a place to ogle at the Pudong skyline. Perhaps its most defining character comes from the old and massive brick buildings, hotels, and banks from the turn of the 20th century. As the area around the Bund was home to international trade settlements, many of the buildings that line this stretch of waterfront are old banking buildings that are more reminiscent of Europe than China. Shanghai in the 1920’s and 1930’s was an Asian playground for the rich and famous. International millionaires, celebrities, gangsters, and the like frequented this area that used to be termed the Paris of Orient. After the communist victory in the Chinese civil war, the face of these institutions changed, being converted to other uses. Only in the last 20 years has the Bund seen a revival in form to what it used to be. Many buildings are now hotels again, banks operate again, and the artistic and architectural wonder of these buildings has been preserved.
People of the Bund
When you tire of the varied buildings, ferries, barges, and lights that make up the Bund in all its displays, you can turn your attention to the people. This won’t be a challenge as more than likely you’ve already been pressed fully to them in crowds or looked around them to catch glimpses of some sights. Everyone loves the Bund. It is commonly crowded with local tourists taking selfies and posed shots with the skyline.
Because it is always full of people, it is often here that you get Chinese tourists approaching you to take a photo. Many Chinese still find western faces exotic and want to take photos with you – or of you. The blond haired and blue eyed (heaven help the red head I saw the other day) get the most attention of all. One afternoon while our family was resting on the Bund, I noticed an elderly man slowing walking circles around us. His arms were folded across his chest and I noticed his cell phone was being held up between his elbow and chest as he subtly took photos and/or videos of us. I’m happy to pay it back as I’ve taken my share of older Chinese ladies with branch brooms sweeping the street, or men on bikes pulling 30,000 cardboard boxes stacked up high. Cultural entertainment and exchange abounds on the Bund which is also part of what makes it a timeless and top city attraction.
